Walked past Keng Eng Kee Restaurant
for years and never once had the urge to dine there. Perhaps I was confused by
what I saw: an air-con room without an attached kitchen and a cze char stall a
few meters away that I much later learned were, in fact, two parts of a single
restaurant.
Having said that, my foodie
friends were talking about this restaurant of late, and I had read some
favorable reviews of it on the Net; so I decided to give it a go. The prices on
the menu shocked me in a very pleasant way. They were cheap, and cost the same
if you had dined in the air-con room (so I was told) -- if you could get a
table there.
The first dish that arrived at
our table was, in fact, the first photo to catch my eye on the menu. Pearl Roll
or明珠卷 in Chinese, looked good and
sounded poetic. Deep-fried bean curd skin with salted egg yolk, ham and
mushroom, the dish was visually attractive and I liked the crispy skin. The inclusion
of ham was odd though, and didn't help the taste much, but it made a nice
starter, and, at least, was eye candy.
For those who long for the taste
of home cooking, the second dish was it -- a very straightforward version of
sweet & sour pork! Unfussy, uncomplicated, and easy to replicate, just like
mum’s cooking. The only nitpick I had with the dish was that its batter was a
bit too soggy for my taste, but hey, not all mothers cook like a chef.
The next dish was by far the one
I enjoyed most. Cuttlefish Kang Kong doesn't require much cooking, but the
sweet sauce is key. The sauce served here was delicious but it tasted familiar.
A final drop of white wine before leaving the kitchen would have made it
perfect. However, I noticed another version of this dish featured in the post
of one of our leading food bloggers, but his raving review of the dish
obviously differs from mine. Do I detect a double standard here? Hmmmmm…..
The next dish got me thinking: Maybe
it's the quality of pork available, but is getting a good Claypot Liver in Sg
as difficult as looking for an attractive guy who isn't gay? One of the best
efforts I’ve tasted thus far belonged to Manhill Restaurant. I was told the
chef at Keng Eng Kee was a lad of 30 or so, and that he took pains to work at his
wok technique. His mastery of heat control showed in the perfect ‘doneness’ of
the liver. However, the liver slices were insufficiently uniform and were
definitely too thin such that they lacked bite. I only wished the chef could
have lavished as much time and effort on the knife as he did on the wok. It
would have made him more rounded as a traditional Chinese kitchen master. He
should have been more generous with the ginger and Chinese wine too.
The finale was a dish I was so
looking forward to – Moonlight Hor Fun or 月光河粉. To begin
with it was a dish that never fails to receive raves on the Net, and deservedly
so. Secondly I had been on the hunt for a truly good specimen of it ever since
the famous stall at Zion Food Center closed. Maybe I had set my hopes too high,
but what I was served was utterly disappointing. The dish was lukewarm, with a
raw egg nestled in the middle of hor fun that lacked any wok hei – and this
from a chef who was known to be good at ‘throwing smoke’. The lack of heat in
the dish actually raised the specter of Salmonella in my mind as I tossed the
noodles.
Keng Eng Kee is a restaurant I
would gladly return to, but it has its its rough edges, some glaringly so. The chef
has much of his career ahead of him, and would do well to take all the accolades
hurled his way, in stride. He obviously has a lot to learn, but his heart, as
far as cooking is concerned, is in the right place.
Keng Eng Kee Seafood
Blk 124 Bukit Merah Lane 1
#01-136
Singapore
Telephone: 6272 1038
No comments:
Post a Comment